How To Minimise The Risk Of Your Dog Being Lost Or Stolen

By Ken Cockram

The continuing saga of dog thefts is an ongoing problem for all dog owners and not just the rich and famous.

Although, sadly, this issue is only brought to our attention when it affects a household name it is, in fact, happening all around us, on a daily basis. The public, therefore, needs to be aware of the potential threat and the need to be on their guard at all times.

The thieves’ intention is to make as much money as they can, whether selling dogs on to supply unscrupulous puppy farms for breeding purposes or holding the original owners to ransom, etc. Also, do not assume these people are only looking for young, entire, pedigree dogs. All dogs are at risk, even older mongrels. Whatever the reason, having your much loved dog taken from you is extremely upsetting, not just for you and the family, but for the dog too. Realistically, it can be easier to steal a dog than to break into a house!

In some cases private gardens have been targeted in order to steal dogs, so do ensure that your garden is secure, especially if your dog is left unattended for long periods of time.

In my job I frequently observe people walking with their dogs and it amazes me that so many of them are clearly oblivious, often for long periods of time, as to where their dog is and what it is doing. The owners are so pre-occupied talking to other people, listening to music, using mobile phones, etc. that it doesn’t occur to them the need to frequently check on their dog’s actions and whereabouts. Of course, people like this are not consciously encouraging dog thefts but they are doing very little to discourage them.

Realistically, if you cannot see your dog then you cannot be in control of it. You do not know who or what is around the corner.

Some people have been asked by strangers: ‘Has your dog been neutered or spayed?’ If this happens to you, alarm bells should immediately start ringing.

The three main exercises that are vital in order to maintain basic control and discipline on a daily basis and, therefore, minimise any risk of your dog becoming lost or stolen when out, are: Direction Control, Recall and Lead Control.

The ‘direction control’ is intended to do two things: firstly, to move the dog with you in your intended direction and, secondly, to enable you to turn the dog away from a direction you do not wish it to take.

As an example, if, whilst on your walk, your dog is being distracted by something or someone you do not recognise, and is close enough, then put the lead on. At least now the dog cannot be taken away from you, should that be the intention. If your dog is a little further away, and you have cause for concern, then turn and walk in the opposite direction with a strong command to your dog ‘this way’. (This is ‘direction control’.) Do remember, your dog cannot follow you if you are not going anywhere. If there is a greater distance between you and the dog, and you are at all concerned, then you must reduce the gap as quickly as possible in order to remedy the situation. Walk towards the dog and when you are close enough, you can bring about a direction control by walking away in the opposite direction with the command ‘this way’. Although you are walking away, you must, of course, turn your head to ensure that the dog is, in fact, following you. In order for the command to work the dog must be able to see you walk away. You must, though, put a lot of effort into your body language to make yourself more interesting than the subject you are attempting to take it away from. (The further you are from the dog the less likely you are to succeed in changing the situation.)

The ‘recall’ serves one specific purpose – to bring the dog from where it is to where you are. However, as explained above, the greater the distance to be travelled by the dog, the greater the possibility that it could be distracted during its journey to you. Many ‘recall’ commands end in failure because the input is too weak to hold the dog’s attention. The two main reasons for failed commands are complacency and bad timing. Remember the more interest a dog has elsewhere, the greater your input must be if you wish to change the situation.

When there is a greater distance involved, better perhaps to start with a direction control as explained above. This will at least make it easier for you to separate the dog from the distraction. As the distance between you and your dog becomes shorter, you can then bring about a recall, put the lead on and continue on your way. When you are comfortable that the distraction is behind you, then you can consider taking the lead off again. Don’t be complacent though. Your dog has a more efficient nose than you and if a particularly tasty treat was being offered it may want to return. If that person was a potential thief you can be sure they will use the tastiest treats possible. Most criminals do their homework first. A piece of ‘sirloin steak’ will be of more interest than normal everyday treats.

If someone at a distance, who you do not know, is attempting to offer a food treat, or/and what you consider undue attention to your dog, your first reaction should be ‘direction control’ as described above. If you decide to continue in that new direction, all is well. If, on the other hand, the dog retains a strong interest in the person offering the food, the next step is to do a ‘recall’, in order to enable you to put the lead on.

Dog thefts have sadly now become commonplace. One of the methods being used by these people, whose primary aim is to take your much-loved dog away from you, is food enticement. In order to prevent this I would suggest simply putting the lead on to prevent your dog from making contact with the food being offered and from there using correct ‘lead control’. Lead control is to ‘action’ a correction by snatching at the lead very quickly and then loosening it. A loose lead is your only visible proof of success.

It makes good sense, therefore, to discourage your dog from taking food from anywhere other than his food bowl and/or your hand.

These exercises like any others, of course, must be practised regularly in order to make them strong. If you only use them when you encounter a problem then clearly they will not be strong enough to work. Practice, practice, practice!

You must judge, on the strength of your concern, which of the above exercises is appropriate in the given situation.

If someone is offering a lot of attention to your dog better, in the present climate, to assume the worst than to be complacent and think: ‘What a nice person making a fuss of my dog’. The latter may be right but if that person is up to no good he/she, and your dog, may be gone quicker than you realise.

The overall message here is: Be aware of where your dog is and what it is doing at all times.

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